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Smith Fork Ranch Tucked into a remote valley carved out by the turbulent Smith Fork of the Gunnison River, this timeless Rocky Mountain retreat is engulfed by several hundred thousand acres of scenic National Forests and protected wilderness (midway between Aspen and Telluride). Five years ago, Marley and Linda Hodgson unexpectedly came across the dilapidated 1890s enclave while they were in the process of selling their renowned Ghurka leather goods business. Thanks to their fortitude and vision, Smith Fork has now been authentically rebuilt as a gracious and charmingly rustic ranch that evokes the Old West and a distant, more innocent age. On arrival, we were instantly struck by the remarkable grandeur of the setting, the ranch being embraced by the snowcapped peaks of the towering West Elk Mountains and the dramatically solitary 1,100-foot spire of Needle Rock. Tidy pathways and wellkept flowerbeds skirt the mellow timber structures, now lovingly restored and refurbished with full modern amenities. A massive stone fireplace flanks the atmospheric lounge of the main lodge, the handsome room trimmed by plank floors, deep leather sofas, primitive Western antiques and a fine array of Native American artifacts. From the very beginning, the services of many talented artists and craftsmen were engaged for the restoration, so delightful details abound throughout the property. Local textiles, specially carved furnishings, handmade pottery, whimsical ironware and elk antler chandeliers have all been combined with exemplary taste and discrimination. Accommodations consist of four separate cabins and a twostory log guest house with five bedrooms. All of the lodgings are admirably decorated and quite comfortable, though the cabins tend to offer more serenity and seclusion. One-bedroom “Spruce Cabin” sports exposed chinked log walls in a cozy living area with a gas-burning woodstove, a queen-size bed topped by a down comforter, a small well-equipped bath with a walk-in slate-tiled shower, plus a private deck boasting a majestic view of looming Saddle Mountain. Two-bedroom (one bath) “Aspen” and “Oak” offer similar comforts and views for families. “River Cabin” is the largest of all and encompasses three bedrooms and three baths, the third room being ideal for children as it is actually a semi-enclosed loft with twin beds and bunks. Nestled near the bank of the rushing river a short stroll from the central compound, this cabin features a substantial log fireplace, screened porch and magical wraparound deck with a sunken hot tub. Mornings begin in the Dinner Bell Cook House that has been stylishly appointed with leather and dappled cowhide. Here, the kitchen regularly complements its customary breakfast menu with specialties such as elk sausage patties with rich organic eggs and superlative corn cakes laden with fresh blueberries. Our hats are off to chef Patrick Walley for his artfully simple cuisine, which takes full advantage of the region’s farm-fresh meat and produce. Dinner is an occasion of serious gastronomic intent, and in benign summer weather is served in a canvas-topped openair pavilion. Dishes include superb local lamb and beef, as well as delicacies such as roast quail with cornbread stuffing and port-orange sauce, or sautéed trout fillets with a pumpkin-seed crust. The Hodgsons frequently dine alongside their guests, with Marley offering advice about an appropriate choice of wine from their extensive private cellar. Picnic lunches and cookouts supplement the lodge meals, and evenings usually conclude by the fireside with entertainment. During our stay, a wrangler from Argentina sang a repertoire of plaintive gaucho songs. Most days are spent in the saddle on half-day and full-day rides through flower-strewn alpine meadows and along stunningly picturesque backcountry wilderness trails. Horses are carefully matched to a rider’s skills, with instruction being available for inexperienced city slickers. Knowledgeable guides also stand by to accompany avid hikers who may wish to explore the ruggedly pristine surroundings, including nearby Black Canyon with its magnificent gorges and sweeping cliffs. This is a slice of heaven for anglers as well, with several casting ponds harboring rainbow trout up to eight pounds. In addition, friendly, professional guides can escort you to three miles of private beats along the crystal-clear, fast-flowing Smith Fork, which provides the ultimate challenge for the true fly-fishing connoisseur. We loved the genuine Western spirit, timeless tranquility and rustic-cozy comforts of this ranch and would not hesitate to return. Indeed, this is a sensuous spot to kick back and savor some of nature’s most invigorating scenic wonders. That said, demanding souls who require lavish marble baths, round-theclock room service and high-speed Internet access miss the point of a rejuvenating vacation here and should definitely look elsewhere. Guest House Room for two, $2,550 (3 nights) and $5,600 (7 nights), all meals, fly-fishing (as well as instructional clinics), guided hiking and horseback riding included; Spruce Cabin for two, $2,550 (3 nights) and $5,600 (7 nights); Oak Cabin for four, $5,100 (3 nights) and $11,200 (7 nights); River Cabin for six, $7,800 (3 nights) and $18,000 (7 nights). Open late May to mid-October with a 7-night minimum required Jun 20-Sep 4; 3-night minimum rest of season. Families welcome. Inquire about women-only cowgirl weekend Sep 29-Oct 2. Nearest airports are in Montrose (80 minutes) and Grand Junction, Aspen and Telluride (all approximately 2 hours away).
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Phone: (970) 921-3454
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