SMITH FORK RANCH CRAWFORD
WITH COLORADO’S OVERWHELMING GROWTH, it’s getting harder to find getaways that aren’t overrun with people – locals, newcomers, and tourists alike. We set out to find locations that were not only perfect but were also free of crowds. We looked high and low for special Colorado spots that were flawless – from the views and lodging to service and atmosphere.
And just what did we uncover? From a high-end hotel where the staff is always two steps ahead to a tucked away guest ranch, we think these five spots define the word perfection. Each of these Colorado locations offer different experiences – whether that’s hiking a fourteener or toasting the peaks with a glass of wine in hand. But rest assured, at each of these spots, you’ll be surrounded by beauty in all forms.
IN A LITTLE-DISCOVERED CORNER OF SOUTHWESTERN COLORADO sits a guest ranch that just might be Colorado’s most perfect place of all. Located midway between Aspen and Telluride as the crow flies; the Smith Fork Ranch has history, beauty, adventure, and luxury all in one. Here, roughing it is not in the equation. The original log-chinked cabins and buildings ( the property was homesteaded in the 1890s and became a guest ranch in the 1930s) , have been completely restored and refurbished in the last two years by the Hodgson family. Marble-floor bathrooms, handmade soaps, and skylights paired with gas potbelly stoves, quilts, and beautiful rustic furniture seamlessly blend modern-day extravagance with yesteryear Colorado. Each of the four cabins have private decks, complete with Adirondack chairs for lounging in the sunshine and taking in the views of the surrounding wilderness. Or better yet, arrange to have dinner on the deck and watch the sun set over Needle Rock – the Crawford area’s signature volcanic outcropping.
If roughing it is something you’re looking for, Smith Fork has multiple backcountry camps set up for further exploration of the area. Camps may be reached by foot or by horseback and include an overnight – all with the help of a guide.
The ranch, which has a capacity of 20 guests, sits in an idyllic valley along two and-a-half miles of the Smith Fork River. With Gunnison National Forest and the West Elk Wilderness Area ( the least used wilderness area in the state) just steps from the ranch, hiking, horseback riding, and fly fishing are in abundance. There are seven ponds in addition to the Smith Fork River with Colorado cutthroat, brown, rainbow, and brook trout on which guests can practice their casts and test out their
fly-tying know-how. (All fishing on the ranch is catch-and-release. ) Excellent guides are on hand for casting clinics and fishing trips on and off the property. By sharing the ranch with only a handful of other guests, you can bet on personal attention – be it from the wranglers, the hiking guides, or the fly-fishing gurus.
The real beauty of Smith Fork is that everything is on your time. Activities can be arranged at a moment’s notice, but two hammocks (one hangs interlocken between two ponds) punctuate the idea that time spent at the ranch is designed to be relaxed and unhurried.
It’s hard to pick a favorite element of Smith Fork, but executive chef Bob Isaacson does his best to make sure the food is on the top of your list. Hailing from Aspen’s Little Nell Hotel where he was the sous chef, Isaacson’s cuisine is superb. From homemade granola and banana bread for breakfast, to venison sausage for lunch and fivecourse dinners, all meals star local ingredients from nearby farms and ranches.
If you can tear yourself away from the ranch, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison is well worth the 30-minute drive. As the nation’s newest national park, this region is still undiscovered and there’s a good chance you won’t see anyone else on the trails. Hike the north rim of the 3,000-foot gorge (make sure to check out Exclamation Point) and admire the views from above or hike down into the depths of the breathtaking canyon.
If you’re looking for a luxurious but relaxed getaway, this untouched area of Colorado is calling your name. Come summertime, get yourself to Smith Fork Ranch.
Crawford - 970-921-3454 - www.smithforkranch.com
SEASON - May to early October
RATES - See our Rates page.
DRIVING DIRECTIONS - Approximately four-and-a-half-hours from Denver. Take Interstate-70 west to Glenwood Springs. Follow signs for Aspen/Snowmass through town on Highway 82. Go 12 miles on Highway 82, turn right on Highway 133 at Carbondale. Drive over McClure Pass past Paonia and Hotchkiss. At Hotchkiss take Highway 92 south to Crawford. In Crawford take a left at the Mad Dog Cafe (there’s a sign for Smith Fork National Forest). Smith Fork Ranch is seven miles up the road, just follow the signs and pass Needle Rock.
Published Dec/Jan 02/03
